Don Det
(Si Phan Don), Southern Laos

Time stops at the island of Don Det in Southern Laos!

It`s a peaceful and charming island where the point is to kick off your sandals, and do nothing!

This island in Southern Laos is part of 4000 islands, and is a good place to stay for a couple of nights, to enjoy the laid-back atmosphere in a hammock, and the beautiful view of Mekong River. The island is so remote that it doesn't have electricity 24-7, and no sewer system.

Just walk around the island, and it's dotted with rice fields, lazy buffaloes and rural village homes.

Most backpackers stop by Don Det or Don Khong before they head south to Phnom Penh in Cambodia. Or if you`re coming from Cambodia, the island is a stopover before heading for Pakse.

Where to sleep

My bungalow on Don Det

There are many cheap bungalows scattered on the north side of Don Det.

The first bungalows are located near the drop-off (if coming from Ban Nakasang). Just walk along the road, and choose the bungalow you want. I only saw bungalows with hammocks, so that`s a good reason for coming here.

Here we go!

Most cheap bungalows cost 2-3 dollars per night. My bungalow cost 2 dollars (20.000 Kip) per night. It was a very simple wooden bungalow on stilts, with a large hammock facing the river. And that`s all I needed to relax!

The place had shared bathroom with no light. So watch out… And to prevent bugs from crawling up your nose or ears at nights, you have a mosquito net in your room.

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Where to eat and relax

Welcome to Laos food!

Where to party

You can get drinks and beers at most restaurants on Don Det!

The closest thing you can get to action is at the Don Det beach, by the boat landing. Backpackers will usually gather up, bring beers and some music (a guitar). It`s a good way of getting to know other travellers, so it`s definitely worth a shot.

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Activities on Don Det

Rent a bicycle (10.000 Kip per day) and explore the island. Or you can walk on dirt roads around Don Det -- it will take you max 3 hours.

You`ll pass loads of buffalos eating grass, snotty kids in worn out clothing, snakes, farms and endless fields!

And if you get hungry, there are riverside local restaurants on the road serving good Lao food. You`ll eventually get to the old French railway, where you can cross over to Don Khong. It cost me 5000 Kip to cross over the bridge, back in November 2007.

Speaking of Don Khong...

Somphamit Waterfall

Here you can enjoy the beautiful and popular Somphamit waterfall on the edge of Don Khong. It was impressive to watch the massive volume of this waterfall. I think I stood there for half an hour just to listen to the rumbling and powerful sounds.. It felt liberating.

To get there you have to follow a trail from the railway bridge.

Phapheng Waterfalls

Or you can also try the Phapheng waterfalls.

It`s supposed to be the largest waterfall in Southeast Asia. And the home of freshwater Irrawaddy dolphins.

But I warn you...

You probably have to wait a long time before you see one!

I think I almost waited for 45 minutes before the head of a dolphin popped out of the water.

One cool thing to know about the dolphin is that the dolphins are believed to be reincarnated humans... That`s actually kind of cool to think about!

So, if you`re interested in catching a glimpse of these intelligent animals, the best time to see them is when the river level is low (between Feb and March).

Tubing/Kayaking

Go to Don Det beach where you can tube, or rent a kayak. Check if you can rent tubes at your guesthouse (5000 Kip).

And if you want to cool down, take a refreshing swim in the Mekong river. My friend from Argentina did this. He swam over to a tiny island, but it took him a while before he got there. He almost got caught in the current... So, watch out.

Do Nothing and relax!

Lay in a hammock and do nothing!

Just enjoy the view over Si Phan Don, take a nap in the afternoon or read a book. Or you can observe tiny, cute geckos crawling in and out of your bungalow, eating bugs. They do the dirty job...

Another nice thing to do while laying in your hammock, is to watch the clear sky at nights on Don Det. I think it`s one of the places on earth where you can see thousands of stars clearly. It`s so clear that you almost feel like they`re really close. It`s hard to describe the feeling, but you`ll know what I mean when you see it… It`s beautiful!!!

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So, where do you want to go next?

Try the popular caving and tubing in Vang Vieng.

Stop by Luang Prabang.

Heading for Phnom Penh?

Going South to visit the Angkor Temples in Cambodia?

Return from Don Det to Backpacking Tips Asia.