Luang Prabang
Laos

It`s peaceful and has its lovely charm. The whole town is built in French colonial architecture, and is surrounded by an incredible, luscious scenery. I kept taking pictures when I travelled around!

On the other hand, some will maybe find Luang Prabang as too calm because it`s not the ultimate party place.

Either way, I recommend staying in LP at least a couple of nights to find out...!

Where to sleep

My goal was Chaliny guest house according to my Lonely Planet (from 2006), but some backpackers told us that the place had shut down.

So, plan B was to find another one. That didn`t turn out to be a problem as there are guesthouses scattered almost everywhere in town.

Staying in Luang Prabang can be pricey though. So go to
Ban Wat That area which is known to be less expensive. But have in mind that it fills up quickly!

Phousy Guest House 3

Price per night: 300 B

Nice, clean rooms with attached bathroom, hot water and air-con. I could either pay with Kip or Baht. There`s a smaller room upstairs which is cheaper, but smaller. Unfortunately I got a room right by an alley with screaming cats at night.

Phousy 3 is located right outside the monk school near Th Sisavangvong.

Viradesa

Price per night: 10 000 Kip

The large room I got was not the cleanest room I`ve seen, but it was alright. No air-con, but hot water included. And at the bar, they show a movie every evening. And not to mention, the staff was helpful and friendly.

I didn`t try a dorm room, so I`m afraid that I don`t have anything to say about it.

Boupha Guest House

Price per night: 4000-8000 Kip (dorm beds)

I never stayed here, but I met some British backpackers who stayed here a couple of nights, and they seemed to like the place.

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Where to eat and relax

The food in Luang Prabang is awesome! And can be very cheap! Here's the cheapest place I found:

In the evening, there`s a popular food stall on Th Sisavangvong (you have pass the Royal Palace Museum if coming from Th Sakkarin direction). You can't miss the long queues!

Here you can get:

• Mouth-running vegetarian buffet for 5000 Kip

• Beer Lao for 9000 Kip

It was ALWAYS crowded every time I had my dinner there, and not many seats to be found, but the food was remarkable! And the stall reminded me of Mongolian/Chinese restaurants: Pick the vegetables and noodles you want, then they heat it up for you.

Riverside Restaurants

You should go to the Mekong River and find open-air restaurants along the river. They serve some of the most delicious fish dishes I`ve ever eaten, and you get to sit by the river.

L`Etranger Books & Tea

If coming from Th Sisavangvong, you have to go around Phousy Mountain to get to this cozy book cafe!

The place is just cozy and comfortable. Here you can borrow a book while being served fresh juices or smoothies, and you can also buy, sell or trade books. I tried the tea lassi and Chai tea -- and loved it!

And in the evenings, you can watch a movie while relaxing on a big floor pillow. They have the movie nights upstairs. Get here early though, it can get crowded. The last time I saw a movie here was around 7:00 p.m. and they played "Sin City."

Scandinavian Bakery

Small, but a nice place to have your breakfast, pizza or burger!

If you`re a sugar monster, try chocolate-filled croissants, cheese/chocolate croissants, brownies, cinnamon cake or ginger snaps! The coffee here was great as well.

For travelers coming from Scandinavia, they have "snus" ( tobacco in tiny bags; resembling tea bags). A dream come true for a Scandinavian who has run out of it ;-)

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Where to party

Hive Bar

Most people coming here wants to sit outside. I can see why -- they have placed soft couches and chairs in a small garden with candles and lights, and they have Happy Hour. You can sip a cocktail or Beer Lao while listening to hip-hop or electro music.

Bowling

Believe it or not, many travellers and locals get together at a bowling place 10 minutes (with Tuk-Tuk or taxi) outside center of town!

The beers flood and the atmosphere is alright. It's a perfect place to hang out with fellow travelers!

There are seven bowling lanes, and you have to come here early to play a round with bowling, as the waiting line grows fast! We arrived here around 11:30 p.m. and it was packed!

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Where to shop

Evening Market

You'll find an enormous evening market every day on Th Sisavangvong, and in the side streets of the main road. The whole town lights up and the market becomes the hightlight of the evening!

You can get:

T-shirts, beautiful weavings (like silk scarfs), home-made soft toys, wooden frog toys, pencil cases, stuffed snakes in jars, paintings, accessories, handbags, Laotian crafts, souvenirs, paper lamps etc.

I got like eight elephant soft toys for 2 USD and a two paintings for
4 USD.

Day-time Shops

During day-time there are shops along Th Sisavangvong. Anything from textile galleries to travel gear.

I remember this nice shop with all sorts of travel gear. It was located on the same side as the Scandinavian Bakery. You wouldn't believe how large their selection was in backpacks, and sandals!

I bought this small, cool backpack -- perfect for day-trips, and my first Teva sport sandals! ;-)

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Activities in Luang Prabang

Tat Kuang Si Waterfalls

Admission: 20 000 Kip (November 2007)

Gorgeous waterfalls which flow into turquoise water pools!

The travellers I went with, told me that you can climb to the top and take a dip in a refreshing swimming hole. I never got to the top because of the muddy "stairs" and my newly stitched-up foot.

Take a look at the water...

The cheapest way of getting there, is to share a Songthaew with fellow backpackers. We were 7 people sharing a Songthaew, and I remember paying 5000 Kip (per person).

Ock Pop Tok Weaving Class

1-day class: 45 USD dollars

First of all, there was a presentation and a tour in the garden where they grow the trees and plants. Then you`ll watch fat silk worms being fed papaya leaves.

... Then you`ll learn how to spin silk, prepare dyed silk yarns (by crushing Tumeric or Lemongrass to get the colour yellow or green).

We took the 1-day class (7,5 hours), and got to choose two colours and a pattern to weave a placemat. I had my very own teacher who taught me how to use my feet and hands to weave. It was fun trying something new. The staff here was so friendly and kept smiling all the time.

You will feel welcome at this place!

Picture left: Icky part: Silk worms! Picture right: Good part: Lao Lunch

The price included a lunch: I remember sitting around a long table with the local weavers and the staff, eating plenty of food. I ate the fried Mekong fish, sticky rice and a sauce with chilli and tomatoes. The day kept getting better and better!

If you`re interested, book a class at the gallery:

Address: 73/5 Ban Vat Nong

Phone nr: 856 (0) 71 253 219

Opening hours: 8.30 - 9 pm

The weaving centre is on Ban Saylom. Phone nr: + 856 (0) 71 212 597

Click here to find out more about the Ock Pop Tok Weaving Classes in Luang Prabang Laos.

Arranged Tours

When it comes to tours, here are some of your eco-options:

Green Discovery Eco-tours. Click on the links to see the programs, prices or make a booking:

-- If you want to go kayaking, -- trekking, -- elephant riding -- rafting, -- rock climbing, -- mountain biking -- or try a motorbike trip.

Monk procession

Try something new!

Wake up at 5.45 am, get a face wash, put on a sweater and watch a monk procession at 6.00. a.m.

The monk processions are every day on Th Sisavangvong, towards Th Sakkarin.

Experience the static and silent atmosphere, and you can even join the line to offer them food. The monks and novices line up, people set out mats in the street and line up as well. Then the novices walk slowly along the crowd to get food, candies and some throw in money in their jars as well!

Important that you don`t stand too close to the monks (the really old ones) -- I got some evil looks from locals and monks for getting too close (was trying to take a picture).

Royal Ballet Pralak Pralam

Royal Ballet

Admission: 15 dollars (Nov 2007)

I`ve never been to a ballet before so it was nice to see traditional colorful costumes and a lot of dancing!

But some acts were lively and fun, and some were not.

I have to admit that we fell asleep during the boring ones, and we were sitting in the front row…

Give and Take

Lao Red Cross provides Lao massage, or you can give blood. And they have traditional sauna/steambath!

Try the massage/sauna here for 4 good reasons:

• Lao Red Cross works with projects to improve the living conditions in the villages. Like: Gravity Fed Water systems

• Teaching students and Tuk-Tuk drivers in first aid, sexual health issues and "facts for life"

• Recruiting blood donors to help patients

• Relief Activities to villagers

So, to cover these projects financially, they need of course money...!

Address: Ban Naviengkham

Phone: 071-25 4147

Royal Palace Museum

At Royal Palace museum you`ll see religious objects on display, as well as silk screens, paintings, Buddha statue etc. The thing that fascinated me the most was the walls covered with colorful and beautiful murals.

The place is touristy though. And remember that you`re not allowed to enter the building with shoes, you have to cover your shoulders and lock your belongings in a safe before entering.

I was wearing a stroppy dress this day, and didn`t plan to stop by this museum. After I paid, I went into the locker room. The local wardrobe-guy pointed at my shoulders, and shaked his head saying:

"Bad, bad...No, No..."

Phousy Mountain

Sunday Buddha

Climb the mountain and pass a monk village and Buddhas named after the weekdays (Monday Buddha, Saturday Buddha etc.)

You`ll see a temple at the top, and a small cave with Buddha`s footprint.

But the most important thing...

... is that you`ll get to experience the most spectacular view of the Luang Prabang area! Just imagine yourself on the top of a mountain...

On top of that, it`s good excercise as you make your way up, trembling on approximately 320 steps! (it felt like a million to me).

When you`re half way up, you have to pay a fee (20 000 Kip).

You`re done reading Luang Prabang, where do you want to go next?

Are you heading south? Click here to read about Vang Vieng.

Heard about the beautiful Bolaven Plateau? Go here to read about Pakse and the Bolaven Plateau.

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