You've just entered Malaysia's heaven!

The lovely islands are located on the Eastern coast of Malaysia, not far from the Thai border. The islands are Perhentian Kecil (small island) and Perhentian Besar (big island).

• You will find white beaches! I didn't believe it when I laid my eyes on them…

• You get to dive and snorkel in crystal clear water!

• If you get tired of sunbathing, you have the opportunity to discover the surrounding jungle and watch awesome creatures like the monitor lizards!

  Large monitor lizard running around in the Perhentians is a common sight!

• We stayed at Long Beach on Perhentian Kecil, and it was just so relaxing. I felt that my stress levels dropped. It was hard to leave the islands.

• The Perhentian Kecil is known as the backpacker island, and you get the opportunity to get to know other travelers! Yeah!

But...

I'm sorry to say that the Perhentians have been victims to pollution, garbage and the construction of the ugly jetty at Long Beach.

Yes, the beaches are white, but they're not clean, at least not on Long Beach.

The jetty on Long Beach -- Perhentian Kecil

When we stayed there we saw bits and pieces of trash like paper, cans scattered around the bungalows and on the beach. And it didn't seem like the locals cared much about it. It was just sad to see this. And sometimes pieces of garbage floated near the shoreline, especially in the afternoon.

Either way, I still recommend coming to the Perhentians, just because if their natural beauty. You have to search a long time before you encounter something that stunning…

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How to get to the Perhentian Islands

If you're coming from Kuala Lumpur, here's how:

• Take a long-distance bus from the Putra Bus Station (north of KL) to Kuala Besut. As far as I know, you can choose between Mahligai Express (40 RM) and Mutiara Express.

  Taking the Mahligai was effortless, fast and we had leg room. We were given a small bottle of water and some fruit. The bus stops once in the middle of the trip so the passengers can grab some food at a local restaurant, and you can also buy refreshments there. But watch out for the wonderful toilets (I'm being ironic now...) Prepare yourself for a only a bucket of water and spiders possibly crawling up your crack.

  The only thing the bus didn't have was a toilet on the bus... AND please sit where you're assigned to seat. We just sat down where we wanted.

  Two hours later a pack of tourists boarded the bus. And they were like: "You're sitting on our seats...Can't you read?!"

  We got really offended by their attitude and thought: "Of course we can read...!" But we didn't want to make a scene, smiled like analphabets (like they thought we were) and just moved.

  The boats in Kuala Besut leave for the Perhentians as early as 07.30 am and as late as 5.30 pm.

• Sometimes the buses don't stop by Kuala Besut, but they make a stop-over in Jerteh. In theory -- if there aren't enough people (at least 10 as stated by the companies), they won't stop by Kuala Besut.

  But let me tell you how we experienced it...

  The bus station in Kuala Besut

  When we took the Mahligai Express, there were maximum 8-10 people on the bus, but yet the bus driver said that he would stop at Kuala Besut. We didn't even know if all of us were going to Kuala Besut...

  So if you don't want to take a taxi from Jerteh and want to save time and money, I suggest that you ask the bus company if the bus drives by Kuala Besut. That is before you board the bus.

  But on the other hand, there's really no hassle with taking a taxi from Jerteh...!

• When you arrive in Kuala Besut, walk to the jetty (3 minutes) and buy a ticket. There's a building right next to the jetty with loads of tour companies. If you don't come to them, they will definitely come to you!

  The company we used was actually MD Travelers Holiday. Before we came to Kuala Besut, I read in the Rough Guides (2008 version) that travelers had to be aware of this company because they happened to not pick up their customers when returning from the islands.

  So I was kind of skeptic when our taxi driver drove us straight to MD Travelers (gee, I wonder why, maybe there was a commission involved…). But we took the chance and bought tickets (70 RM for both ways if I remember correctly).

  When we were ready to leave Perhentian Kecil, we called the MD Travelers the day before and asked them to pick us up at 8.00 am. And… they did!

  Returning from the islands -- When can the boats pick you up?

  The boats can pick you up at 8.00 am, noon and 4 pm. But to maximize your chances of getting picked up, I recommend that you take the 8 am boat!

  So I guess my worries weren't for nothing. But I don't want to generalize the whole situation. I mean, we did hear from the locals that the chances of getting picked up are higher in the morning, than in the afternoon...

  Conservation charge ticket

• When you arrive at the jetty in Kuala Besut, you're expected to pay 5 RM extra in conservation charge. It's written on the ticket that the money goes to supporting the heritage programs.

• If you're taking the small speed-boat, be prepared for a bumpy ride for half an hour to Perhentian Kecil!

  A good tip is to sit at the back of the boat so you'll feel less pain in your ass.

• One warning though:

  When the boat arrived near the shoreline of Long Beach, the boat driver told us that we had to take a taxi boat (2 RM) because he couldn't park the boat on the beach. We immediately got skeptic to this… I mean we were like 10 meters from the shoreline and he asked us to pay another 2 RM! We sensed the scam alarm.

  I'm leaving the Perhentians :(

  But it was either that or swim with our backpack to the beach… When we were dropped off at the beach, we saw several boats with travelers being dropped off right on the shoreline……

• When returning from the islands and you're ready to buy a ticket, go to the bus station in Kuala Besut.

  Departure time (Muktara, Transnational + Mahligai bus companies) to KL: 09.00 am and 8.30 pm

  For Mahligai Express, you have to purchase a ticket at the red ticket booth right outside Yaudin Guesthouse.

  If you want to use Muktiara, turn right after the jetty and you will find a small tour company which sells tickets to KL.

  If you're heading for Kota Bharu, there are a lot of touts at the jetty who are willing to drive you there. But if you don't want to trust these guys, take a taxi near Yaudin Guesthouse.

Perhentian Articles

Don't know where to stay for the night on Perhentian Kecil/Perhentian Besar?

Here are reviews of Panorama Bungalows, Bubu's Resort and prices for other rooms on Perhentian Kecil & Perhentian Besar!

Here are some malaysia accommodation options for Perhentian Kecil (Long Beach)!

You HAVE to try the Malaysian food on Perhentian Kecil!

It's cheap and some of it is absolutely delicious!

As usual, you'll get prices for meals & drinks (beverages & alcohol)

Welcome to Malaysia food on Perhentian Kecil!

Wondering about what kind of activities the Perhentians offer? (Few options though)

Find out here!

Among other things, we did the snorkeling trip around Kecil and Besar -- and here's our review of it!

Here are a couple of things for you to do on the Malaysia islands!

You're done with Perhentians, where do you want to go next?

Heading for Kuala Lumpur?

Wondering about what to consider in your Malaysia Budget?

Return from Perhentians to Backpacking Tips Asia.